Some Thoughts from Argentina

Don't cry for me Argentina
The truth is I never left you
All through my wild days
My mad existence
I kept my promise
Don't keep your distance

Andrew Lloyd Webber



I have had a chance to reflect on our wonderful trip to Argentina and decided to put together some random Observations regarding a few of the people we met, places we visited, and things that I found interesting on our trip.  So here goes!


Our first night we had dinner at Las Nazarenas a "Steakhouse" across the street from our hotel.  Dinner including wine was about 75 bucks.   This incidentally was "ex" tip. (Side Note: Tips everywhere were welcomed  especially if given in "cash".  We first observed this on our cab ride into the city from the airport and it was first hint on the pervasive effect of inflation.  Everywhere a tip of 10% especially  in dollars was very well received).   Our waiter that evening was a recent emigre from Venezuela.  He told us that he and his brother left Venezuela during the last year because of the dire economic situation that country has been in.  He told us his brother moved to New Zealand and they communicate frequently about efforts to get his sister and mother out of Venezuela as well.  So in fewer than 8 hours we were already briefed on South American politics and economics.   We chatted with him about inflation, both in Venezuela and Argentina, and the political situation in his home country.  This he would only described as "complicated".  You could sense he loved his home country but things there were desperate for so many.  This pattern of friendly openiness followed us throughout our trip.

On our second night we ate at a restaurant recommended to us by our concierge called "Fervor" (Barb was looking for "fish").  It was located about 20 minutes away by cab in a\the Buenos sires neighborhood  of Palermo (Think SOHO NY). We had a couple of cocktails, a bottle of great wine, two appetizers and two entrees. Cost - 82 Bucks - we were certainly benefitting from Argentina's "inflation" issues  and we found this almost everywhere in Argentina.  But enough on dinner costs.

The restaurant was on two floors and we were seated on the upper floor (two flights up).  It struck me as being as nice as any restaurant we found in the year we lived in NYC.  It seemed full of locals, I detected no tourists.  Our waiter spoke little english (but still better than our spanish), was friendly and attentive.  He quickly brought us my white wine, and a cocktail that Barbara had ordered  a "Pisco" sour.   (On a "sour" note our favorite bartender in Winter Park had suggested this drink.  "Pisco" is a South American Liqueur, not available in the US, and so he asked us to bring a bottle back for him.).  Of course my "Faithful and Obedient Companion" promptly asked the waiter where she could buy some Pisco, and he had difficulty with her question.  The waiter suggested we ask the wine steward.  A minute or two later the wine steward appeared, a young lady who asked Barbara to repeat her question about "Pisco".  After hearing Barbara restate the question she said that she would have to ask the bartender, and so two flights down she trekked.  Faster than you can say "Pisco" the bartender hiked up the steps and described to "my Faithful and Obedient companion" everything you wanted to know about this fine liqueur.  Unfortunately he also explained that it was a "Peruvian/ Chilean" concoction and could not be purchased at a regular local liquor store in Argentina.  Through all this I "observed" that I could not recall a restaurant in NY where the staff would likely expend that much energy to tell some tourist from Argentina about "Jack Daniels".  During our trip  we found this to be very much the "personality" of typical Argentinians. 

After Buenos Aires we flew to Salta .   Continuing on the "friendly" and "chatty" theme we discovered the joy of renting a car from "Hertz Argentina".  The rental car customer service guy spoke english quite well and was quick to strike up the usual pleasantries one would find at a rental car counter anywhere.  But to our surprise before handing us the keys he took us out to our car (A Chevy "stick shift" by the way every car in Argentina, even cabs are "stick shifts").  First he walked around the car pointing out dings etc. and suggested we take pictures-so we would not "get dinged" any upon our return.  Next he explained that you must drive with your lights on in Argentina-all day.  He then showed us how the car locks worked (unlike American vehicles no wireless button), how to open the trunk, where the jack and spare were etc. He also gave us his personal phone number if we had any problems after hours!   My Observation-I have rented many cars in my time an no US or European agency ever took that kind of time to explain all that stuff.  By the way, the rental counter was busy.  We found him  again when we returned the car and he checked us out in minutes....including an A-OK inspection-ao "ding issues"

Speaking of  people observations.  Our first few days in Salta we stayed at a Beautiful "Chalet?" outside of town called the "House of Jasmines".  Here we met an interesting American couple (more on them shortly) and a couple from Paraguay.  But  I also had an interesting "Observation"  about "modern" social conventions one evening while dancing with some local ladies. 

On Saturday night the House of Jasmines had a "special" dinner- a traditional "banquet" of grilled meats and sausages.  Before dinner we were entertained with some folk dancing by 4 local "gauchos" and 4 'senioritas" .  After the gauchos danced some traditional male only folk dances, the senioritas joined them for a number or two.  Of course up next was the typical ritual of pulling quests up to dance (Yours truly  was the first selected and needless to say I did an improvised "Bristol Stomp "that was ludicrous).  After my debacle the dancers each grabbed a partner-except two obviously  gay male guests.  Which leads me to this" Observation".  Argentina was one of the first countries in the world to recognize gay marriage, years before the US, yet traditional folk dance protocols still have not been figured out.  When faced with a gay couple how do they select partners?  Do they both join a traditional "male only" dance and "who" do they dance with in a traditional  male female partner dance"?    Readers might see this as silly, but frankly I noticed the awkwardness at this social setting.  Neither of the gay man were asked to join in and their demeanor signaled this discomfort (or they were just grouchy?).

The American couple referenced above were "Claudia and Todd" and they had two young boys (7 and 10 years old)  Marlon and Maverick,  They had traveled from Patagonia and were on a mini-vacation.  Todd attended the University of Colorado-Boulder and Claudia (we later learned) was a financial "advisor.  We never really figured out what he did for a living except that he had sold his "business" last year.  They had been living in California but decided to "take a year" in South America to "ski" (Todd said loved skiing Winter Park when he attended U of C) and to "immerse" the two boys in spanish language and culture at a Patagonian International School. Oddly the whole family quickly become "our shadows".  Examples- when we went to Cafayate for 3 days (a three hour drive) they bumped into us at a Winery where we were having lunch.  We thought we said our final goodbyes there as they were flying back to Patagonia,  but  when we returned to Salta for one more night at the House of Jasmines  who was waiting for us?   Yes Todd and Claudia, due to a cancelled flight back to Patagonia.  That evening over a drink we chatted about our families and Claudia mentioned the boys had a half brother in his late 30's. Claudia was wife  number two-and Todd was actually close to our age.  My "Faithful and Obedient" and I tried to imagine raising two young boys over again-at our age.  Yikes.

Ok so where an I going with this bit??  Well I was most enlightened by Claudia's story on Argentinian "Socialized Medicine".  

She was recovering from a severe ankle fracture that she incurred on a hike in a remote section of a Patagonian National Park.  They had hiked to the summit of a high peak and she fell hiking down. The family struggled to get her down to a remote "police" station where she was advised they would have to chopper her out the next day to get to a hospital.  Todd and the boys left her there to "camp in a tent" with the local rangers ....by herself.  The next day she was choppered to what she described as a "public" hospital where the attending "physician" looked at her X-rays and pronounced her as "just fine".  Unfortunately she went home and continued to be in severe pain for several days.  Finally a local friend, a radiologist at a "Private Hospital" suggested she visit there for a second opinion since public hospitals apparently were known to have a somewhat suspicious habit of misdiagnoses.  Sure enough she had a very severe fracture.  Now my "Observations" on "socialized" medicine in general.  Those with resources can find ways to get "better" care everywhere, including Argentina. Oh and it reminded me of the reason me why we bought coverage for "Out of US Medical" travel with our medicare supplement. You never know.

While walking around Salta one afternoon, we stopped to partake of my "Faithful and Obedient's" favorite Argentinian snack food, empanadas, along with a few Salta Brewing Company lagers at a sidewalk cafe on the Town Square. While enjoying the sunshine an Argentinian retiree from Buenos Aires, who was sipping coffee at the table next to us struck up a casual conversation .  We asked if he wanted to join us while we snacked.   The usual chit chat ensued and he told us he was visiting his son in Salta for a few days.  Of course the conversation turned toward our mutual retirement years etc.  He told us he also had retired after years of work,  but now his pension, due to inflation, had been decimated.  Therefore he had gone back to work setting up a business in "trash" and said he was doing pretty well- for example he could still afford regular flights to visit his son.  We talked about how lovely Buenos Aires was and he suggested if we ever go back to look him up and he would have us to his house for dinner!  He even gave Barbara his phone number, which I am not sure she kept...but I thought he might be looking for an attractive Tango partner???

My final Observation was stimulated by our last night in Argentina and it is about the advantages of technology in modern travel.  We used Google (yes I have a love hate relationship with Google) extensively during our trip.  We navigated using Waze, found places to visit, used translate to communicate to cab drivers etc.  For our last dinner I used google to find a "unique" restaurant in Palermo called Proper.  No reservations accepted, and you had to line up outside to be seated in an old warehouse.  Reading past diner's reviews and comments enticed me to give it a try.  Comments included, "seating was on benches at old warehouse tables" and it was "family style", 'food was served on various small plates that you selected from a menu', and  'the wine list was excellent'.  I checked with the concierge and he had heard of the place but could not attest to its' "suitability".  We decided to give it a shot, and planned on arriving when it opened at seven PM.  At 6:30 I showed the doorman my phone with the address who then hailed us a cab and gave instructions to the cab driver, who spoke no english.  The driver  then navigated through heavy traffic for our arrival right at seven sharp.  We were able to join a fairly long  line for the first seating.  The hostess intuitively sat us with english speaking guests- 4 US law students (from NYU) and a gay female couple from London.  Great conversation and a GREAT meal with two bottlers of wonderful Malbec from Mendoza to boot.  when we left the line to get in was a block long! A fitting final dinner to our great adventure!  




With that my friends I bid you ,

Adieu.